HOW TO IDENTIFY YOUR CURL TYPE AND PATTERN

You may have noticed more noise among social media and hair marketing lately about the hair type system and curl patterns. Terms like 4C, 3A and 2B are being used more than ever before. So, what does this all mean and is it something that you should consider? The answer is yes, but with a caveat. 

The “hair type/curl pattern” system was originally introduced by popular 90s hairdresser, Andre Walker. He identified four hair textures, including: 


Straight (Type 1)
Wavy (Type 2)
Curly (Type 3)
Kinky or Coily (Type 4).

It has been built upon over the years to include additional identifiers of A through C to break down the pattern or texture more clearly. 

As you can see, the numbers (2, 3, and 4) refer to the curly family,  while 1 refers to types of straight hair. The letters (A, B, and C) refer to everything from hair diameter (fine, medium, thick) to the wave/ curly type, and even fragility or breakage propensity. 

So yes! The hair type system is a great tool to use as once you identify your hair or curl type and pattern, it can make styling techniques and shopping for products much easier.  The only caveat is that as with all systems, there are differentiations. Most people can include more than one hair type/curl pattern so if you don’t fall completely into one hair type don’t feel confused. Our hair, like you, cannot be put into a box so take this assistance with flexibility.

Curious about your curl type? Here’s a simple way to find out:

Wet your hair with water alone, then cut out a few strands. (You should wet your hair with only water to make sure that no product interferes with the curliness of your hair, making it more or less curly).

Second, place the wet strands of hair on a flat surface, and leave them to air-dry and take their natural shape. You may notice different patterns in your hair, but this is a common occurrence since many curly-haired people have different curl patterns in their hair.

Next, compare it to the information below. We won’t be talking about Type 1 hair, since it is straight hair.

The three types of curly hair; Types 1, 2, and 3 are subdivided into three types each. There are a total of nine categories. These are their characteristics:

Type 2 — Wavy Hair

Type 2 hair ranges from natural waves that are almost unnoticeable to almost curly hair. Wavy hair is usually straight when wet, then creases as it gets dry. It can’t form twists or wrap around itself the way curly hair can.

For healthy hair, ensure you use light products like leave-in conditioners and potions designed for wavy hair, instead of heavy creams and oils that will weigh the strands down. 

2A - Loose Waves

2A is closer to being straight than curly. The hair texture is generally fine, but that is not always the case. It can grow out straight from the root then have a loose “S”-wave or bend at the midlength and ends. This curl pattern is easily straightened with a blowout or straightener.

 Start your routine with a lightweight leave-in conditioner like Evolvh Smart Curl Leave in Conditioner to detangle, add shine, and deliver light hydration. Follow it up with a curl forming product, like Davines Curl Building Serum. Formulated to bring life to your waves and create structure and formation. 

2B - Wavy

2B grows out straight but starts to create a well-formed medium to large “S” wave bend at the midlength and ends like Millie Bobby Brown.

This hair type can feel flat at the roots with more fullness at the ends creating a upside down “V” shape, so increase volume by using a volumizing product like O&M Rootalicious Root Lifting Mousse.

Define waves, preserve bounce and control frizz (2B curls have more frizz than 2A) by using a lightweight a curl-defining cream or potion like Oway Curly Potion.

2C - Strong Wave

2C has tight and well-defined S-shaped waves starting at the root and extending through the ends. The hair texture tends to be thicker and prone to frizz. Many people with 2C hair also have a few curls.

Start your styling routine with a hydrating hair oil, like Naturally Drenched Watermelon Dreams Oil. This will add much needed moisture and control frizz.

Follow it with a styling product that creates volume and curl definition. Your goal is the maintain volume while controlling frizz which seems like competing tasks but you can easily achieve it with the right styling routine.

Our go-to is Innersense Innerpeace Whipped Cream Texturizer. or Evolvh Dream Gel, a cream-gel consistency that adds shine and moisture while controling frizz. Place a small amount into the palm of your hands, emulsify and apply roots to ends. Brush through with your Denman Classic Brush and blot.

GO TO PRODUCTS FOR TYPE 2 HAIR

  • INNERSENSE HYDRATING SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER SET

    Maximize hydration with this light hair care set. Smooth cuticles, moisturizing and add softness.

    ADD TO CART 
  • Oway Curl Priming Cream - MANEPRINT

    OWAY CURL PRIMING CREAM

    Smooth frizz and flyaways while adding shine and moisture to your waves with this hydrating styling cream.

    ADD TO CART 

Type 3 — Curls

Type 3 hair comprises curls in ringlets and spring shapes. The curls look like waves when the hair is wet, but they transform into corkscrew-like swirls as they dry.

The curl pattern starts from the roots giving it more volume than Type 2.

Type 3 hair needs lots of moisture. Invest in oils, defining creams, and leave-in moisturizers. These products help to prevent frizz and dehydration. Styling gels and serums help your hair to get its curly definition back, so make sure to always have those in your arsenal.

Type 3 hair types should avoid dry detergents and sulfates, opting for sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners. Choose a hydrating leave in conditioner to help with detangling, frizz, and hydration. Oway No Rinse Moisture Conditioner is a great option. 

The rich leave-in moisturizing spray softens and detangles thick unruly hair with a nourishing blend of organic oils and botanicals. Most importantly it is vegan and cruelty-free.

3A - Loose Curls

ype 3A is the loosest curl pattern with a stretched spiral curls that are larger in diameter. The are one of the easiest types to manage with lots of bounce (aka elasticity) even with minimal styling.

Go with light styling creams or a gel like OUIDAD Advanced Climate Control Styling Cream to form controlled curls and reduce flyaway. If you want to increase or tighten your curls go with something with stronger hold and forming power like Evolvh Wonderbalm Magic for Curls or Evo Total Recoil Curl Definer. Our hair stylist experts recommend Davines Love Curl Primer paired with Love Curl Cream to form defined, frizz-free curls.

If you lack volume, go with a volumizing product that creates volume at the root, like Cult & King Jelly.

3B - Curly

Type 3B hair includes well-defined ringlets with more bounce and fullness like Julia Garner. It can be more dry and fragile (aka prone to breakage and frizz) than 3A hair, so use a weekly strengthening and moisture treatment like Briogeo Curl Charisma Defining Mask as well as a daily hair oil like Ouidad Mongongo Oil.

This curl type creates fullness and volume so no need for volumizing products which can be drying. Use a detangling brush specific for curly hair to maintain body and curl definition. Our favorite is Tangle Teezer Thick & Curly Detangling Brush.

3C - Super Curly

The curls are more tightly packed corkscrews (the circumference of a straw or pencil) with smaller springs which can fluctuate between loose or highly defined. Hair is tightly packed resulting in dryness and frizz as natural oils struggle to make their way down the hair's mid-length and ends. 

Use a daily hair oil on the mid-length and ends and always choose fragrance- and sulfate-free shampoo and conditioners. Also ensure to keep your hair’s pH balanced. High alkaline shampoos (the majority of those on the market) are extremely drying and can cause brittlness.

Use a pH balancing treatment like Naturally Drenched Rebalance Treatment once every 2 weeks and follow up with a moisture mask like Davines Spotlight Circle to tame frizz and increase shine. 

GO TO PRODUCTS FOR TYPE 3 HAIR

  • OWAY GLOSSY NECTAR

    This hair serum controls frizz, delivers uber-hydration and helps protect from humidity.

    ADD TO CART 

  • EVOLVH SMART CURL SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER SET

    This curl-focused shampoo and conditioner set increases strength, shine, and softness while controlling frizz.

    ADD TO CART 
  • Ouidad VitalCurl+ Define & Shine Styling Gel-Cream - MANEPRINT

    OUIDAD VITALCURL+ DEFINE & SHINE STYLING GEL-CREAM

    Strong hold curl gel/cream defines curls while boosting elasticity and shine.

    ADD TO CART 

Ask the Experts

If your bathroom cabinet is full of products that are not right for your hair, let our experts help you shop this time. Tell us all about your hair texture, type, and goals and receive a personalized routine.

START THE QUIZ

Type 4 — Kinky and Coily

Type 4 is the tightest of all curl patterns. Type 4 hair ranges between tight s-shaped coils or tight zigzag patterns.

Type 4 is the most fragile of curl patterns, with the hair being prone to tangling, breakage, and shrinkage. It requires tons of moisture. You can apply creams and oils, both when it’s wet and dry. Avoid over-drying products like mousses or gels with alcohol. 

Use a cowash between shampoo days, like Ouidad Curl Shaper Cowash Shampoo & Conditioner Set or Cult & King Creampop, days and a scalp scrub, like Innersense True Enlightenment Scalp Scrub, once per week or every other week to clarify and remove build up from the scalp and hair.

4A - Coily

Type 4 A hair is distinctive from 3C hair by its combination of tight ringlets mixed with ”S” shaped tight waves like Yara Shahidi. It retains moisture better than 4B & C but can still be prone to tangling and dryness.

Start your styling routine with a oil or moisturizing leave in conditioner like Evolvh The Standard Hair Oil.

Follow it with a hydrating and strengthening defining product like Ouidad Curl Quencher Intense Curl Cream. It controls frizz and repairs while adding great shine softness.

4B - Tight Zig Zags

4B hair is in tight zigzag patterns instead of full-on coils like Zazie Beetz. They tend to shrink a lot, so make sure to apply moisturizers, then add occlusives to keep the hair hydrated. An occlusive product has ingredients that are targeted at providing a protective seal over your hair and lock in hydration into your hair.


Avoid sulfates, fragrance and silicone as these can cause even more drying of the hair. A rich, clean hair oil like Naturally Drenched Watermelon Dreams Oil to deliver hydration. Keep scalp and hair nourished by applying a scalp healthy treatment daily like Cult & King Tonik Scalp and Hair Purifier.

It is imperative that this hair type be balanced and hydrated so use a weekly hair mask like Naturally Drenched Restore. 4B curls are most delicate when wet, so make sure hair is well-conditioned before detangling and styling.

4C - Tight Coils

Danai Gurira is the perfect example of Type 4C hair. This is the most delicate curl pattern. It has a tight, undefined pattern, quite similar to 4B, except it is in coils instead of z’s. It’s prone to dehydration, shrinkage, and breakage so you should invest in highly moisturizing shampoos and conditioners.

To limit drying and breakage, use a cowash between shampoos like Davines Love Curl Cleansing Cream and apply a oil treatments like Kavella Scalp and Hair Oil Treatment or Briogeo Scalp Treatment Drops once per week.

Use a protein treatment once per week or every other week like Original Mineral Power Base Treatment. Do not over-proteinize, which happens when too many protein-based products are used. A protein treatment once per week or every other week is suitable to increase strength.

If you want to relax really tight coily or kinky curls and control frizz, try Ouidad Advanced Climate Control Styling Cream. The curl control gives a smooth and sleek texture, hydrates and defines the curls and eliminates frizzy hair.

Take special care when detanling. Only do it using a conditioner when wet and use a detangling brush, like a Denman Brush (that do not include bulbed bristles).

GO TO PRODUCTS FOR TYPE 4 HAIR

  • OWAY CURLY SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER SET

    Hydration and repair at it's max. Nourish, soften, and improve porosity with this hair care set.

    ADD TO CART 
  • Ouidad Moisture Lock Leave-In Conditioner - MANEPRINT

    OUIDAD MOISTURE LOCK LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER

    Silicone-free, lightweight leave in conditioner rejuvenates, stimulates and restructures.

    ADD TO CART 

  • EVOLVH SUPER CURL DEFINING CREAM

    Highly moisturizing curl cream that helps define and control curls without drying or crunch.

    ADD TO CART 

Written by Natalie Palomino

Natalie Palomino Is a Master Stylist, educator and Founder of MANEPRINT. Through advanced education and commitment to her craft, she built a vast clientele providing haircare education and hair services.

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